New bike advice.
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"Just want to ask about the bib shorts, are they supposed to be really tight? Mine feel abit too cramped in between the legs at the moment, wonder if I need bigger bib shorts or maybe just bed these in?"
Shorts should feel pretty tight - they should soften up a bit after a couple of washes as they often have starchy stuff in to stiffen them up a bit for manufacture and display. But basically you want the shorts to (and ladies may wish to look away now) hoik your bits up out of the way and keep 'em there while you pedal / bounce up and down over bumps / shuffle around to get comfy etc. Any movement at all should be between shorts and saddle, not shorts and skin. Assuming you got Size 9 (medium) they should be okay.
Shorts should feel pretty tight - they should soften up a bit after a couple of washes as they often have starchy stuff in to stiffen them up a bit for manufacture and display. But basically you want the shorts to (and ladies may wish to look away now) hoik your bits up out of the way and keep 'em there while you pedal / bounce up and down over bumps / shuffle around to get comfy etc. Any movement at all should be between shorts and saddle, not shorts and skin. Assuming you got Size 9 (medium) they should be okay.
I dont want to wash them incase they are too tight, I mean maybe they would slacken off but they just look odd at the front, I mean its hard to explain really apart from it makes you look like a woman lol and that made me think maybe they too tight.
Also tried SPD SL pedals today, suuuuuppppeeerrr easy to clip in they are awsome and bigger surface area is kool too, think is I can move my feet slightly left to right, maybe some float thing? They are pretty tight in there I mean I cant unclip easilly, takes some pulling, not a problem really just wonder if I should slacken the pedal abit so its easier to unclip, maybe it would increase the life of the cleats?
Also got a new speedo today and it has a Cadance meter, I've set it up, now I measured wheel on floor with line and all that and then used a tape measure and it matched the number on the paper, now it picks the speed up fine, but I dont think it is accurate as today I went out on the new bike and flew on it, was doing 23+mph on one stretch and hitting 27 and not even pushing really hard and going into the wind I was doing 16-18+mph and this was not exatly just a super light breeze, maybe 10mph or higher so I'm kind of confused there, cadance meter seems to work, I seem to be jumping between 85-100RPM at the moment.
The bike is amazingly smooth and I dont quite know if the position is 100% perfect as it feels so odd, like so low yea I look in the window at me and it looks fine.
Cycle heaven forgot to give me back my pump I hope they havent lost it!!, when I go in and get it I'll get them to check out the gears, on the smallest ring on the chainset and on the smallest ring on the cassette its kind of clicking but if I move up gears it is fine, on the largest ring on the chainset and the largest ring on the cassette it also clicks.
Also tried SPD SL pedals today, suuuuuppppeeerrr easy to clip in they are awsome and bigger surface area is kool too, think is I can move my feet slightly left to right, maybe some float thing? They are pretty tight in there I mean I cant unclip easilly, takes some pulling, not a problem really just wonder if I should slacken the pedal abit so its easier to unclip, maybe it would increase the life of the cleats?
Also got a new speedo today and it has a Cadance meter, I've set it up, now I measured wheel on floor with line and all that and then used a tape measure and it matched the number on the paper, now it picks the speed up fine, but I dont think it is accurate as today I went out on the new bike and flew on it, was doing 23+mph on one stretch and hitting 27 and not even pushing really hard and going into the wind I was doing 16-18+mph and this was not exatly just a super light breeze, maybe 10mph or higher so I'm kind of confused there, cadance meter seems to work, I seem to be jumping between 85-100RPM at the moment.
The bike is amazingly smooth and I dont quite know if the position is 100% perfect as it feels so odd, like so low yea I look in the window at me and it looks fine.
Cycle heaven forgot to give me back my pump I hope they havent lost it!!, when I go in and get it I'll get them to check out the gears, on the smallest ring on the chainset and on the smallest ring on the cassette its kind of clicking but if I move up gears it is fine, on the largest ring on the chainset and the largest ring on the cassette it also clicks.
"I dont want to wash them incase they are too tight,"
Will... ...I've said it before but I'll repeat it one more time, loudly:- "WASH SHORTS AFTER EVERY USE IF YOU DON'T WANT A GHASTLY RASH DOWN THERE". They're lycra, so they certainly won't shrink (unless you cook them).
Slacken the pedals off to the easiest setting for now, you can tighten them back up when you're used to unclipping, if/when unclipping accidentally ever becomes a problem.
I wouldn't stare too much at the bike computer - your speed will vary wildly according to wind direction, gradient etc. The computer will be accurate assuming the sensor is in the right place and the numbers you've entered are the right ones. Give the riding position a while and see if anything aches before you fiddle with it - you may not need to. The position on your old bike had the bars very high (because you were trying to cure the backache) when in fact the saddle to bars distance was too short and caused your back to curve. Low can still be comfy (if you're flexible enough) if all the distances are right. Enjoy that bike!
I've said THIS before but I'll say it again, also loudly:- "GEARS ARE NOT DESIGNED TO WORK BIG RING/BIG COG OR LITTLE RING/LITTLE COG!" You need to get used to changing up or down on the front derailleur before you get to the opposite cog to whichever ring you're on, or it will (a) rattle and (b) wear out your chain. Just look at the poor chain in that situation - it's bending like ****.
Right.. ..I promise not to shout any more (this evening...)
Will... ...I've said it before but I'll repeat it one more time, loudly:- "WASH SHORTS AFTER EVERY USE IF YOU DON'T WANT A GHASTLY RASH DOWN THERE". They're lycra, so they certainly won't shrink (unless you cook them).
Slacken the pedals off to the easiest setting for now, you can tighten them back up when you're used to unclipping, if/when unclipping accidentally ever becomes a problem.
I wouldn't stare too much at the bike computer - your speed will vary wildly according to wind direction, gradient etc. The computer will be accurate assuming the sensor is in the right place and the numbers you've entered are the right ones. Give the riding position a while and see if anything aches before you fiddle with it - you may not need to. The position on your old bike had the bars very high (because you were trying to cure the backache) when in fact the saddle to bars distance was too short and caused your back to curve. Low can still be comfy (if you're flexible enough) if all the distances are right. Enjoy that bike!
I've said THIS before but I'll say it again, also loudly:- "GEARS ARE NOT DESIGNED TO WORK BIG RING/BIG COG OR LITTLE RING/LITTLE COG!" You need to get used to changing up or down on the front derailleur before you get to the opposite cog to whichever ring you're on, or it will (a) rattle and (b) wear out your chain. Just look at the poor chain in that situation - it's bending like ****.
Right.. ..I promise not to shout any more (this evening...)
When I said I dont want to wash incase they are too tight I meant, I dont want to give them a first wash as if they are too tight I cant take them back to the shop if I've washed them.PhilBixby wrote:"I dont want to wash them incase they are too tight,"
Will... ...I've said it before but I'll repeat it one more time, loudly:- "WASH SHORTS AFTER EVERY USE IF YOU DON'T WANT A GHASTLY RASH DOWN THERE". They're lycra, so they certainly won't shrink (unless you cook them).
Slacken the pedals off to the easiest setting for now, you can tighten them back up when you're used to unclipping, if/when unclipping accidentally ever becomes a problem.
I wouldn't stare too much at the bike computer - your speed will vary wildly according to wind direction, gradient etc. The computer will be accurate assuming the sensor is in the right place and the numbers you've entered are the right ones. Give the riding position a while and see if anything aches before you fiddle with it - you may not need to. The position on your old bike had the bars very high (because you were trying to cure the backache) when in fact the saddle to bars distance was too short and caused your back to curve. Low can still be comfy (if you're flexible enough) if all the distances are right. Enjoy that bike!
I've said THIS before but I'll say it again, also loudly:- "GEARS ARE NOT DESIGNED TO WORK BIG RING/BIG COG OR LITTLE RING/LITTLE COG!" You need to get used to changing up or down on the front derailleur before you get to the opposite cog to whichever ring you're on, or it will (a) rattle and (b) wear out your chain. Just look at the poor chain in that situation - it's bending like ****.
Right.. ..I promise not to shout any more (this evening...)
Its just hard to get used to the changing gears, just I see most people on the middle/low ring, if I want to go fast like 20mph+ I need the big ring but I can get more speed on the flats with this bike I think anyway due to the bigger big ring compared to my old bike, shame I still got to use the old bike for college.
**edit**, weirdly enough after 24hours hanging from my door after I worn them the bib shorts feel ok now, I guess they are ment to felt better on the saddle and sat down anywhere compared to standing up though?
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MichaelCarter
- Posts: 185
- Joined: Fri May 18, 2007 12:16 pm
1, your shorts: I'm sure they are fine and yes, they are meant to feel right whilst youre on the bike not standing up and besides if you've worn them to ride in they won't take them back!
2, your speed: the numbers you quoted seem normal for the amount of wind, put your computer on clock mode if you find yourself looking at it too much. You are probably going faster because it's a better bike which is the right size for you and you're getting fitter!
3, your position: as Phil said, give it a while. If it hurts change it, if it feels different give it a chance and ask someone whilst your riding with them to have a look and see what they think.
2, your speed: the numbers you quoted seem normal for the amount of wind, put your computer on clock mode if you find yourself looking at it too much. You are probably going faster because it's a better bike which is the right size for you and you're getting fitter!
3, your position: as Phil said, give it a while. If it hurts change it, if it feels different give it a chance and ask someone whilst your riding with them to have a look and see what they think.
"Its just hard to get used to the changing gears, just I see most people on the middle/low ring"
Quite a few experienced riders have got used to pedalling at a relatively high cadence, so will spend proportionately more time in relatively low gears spinning the cranks, and hence more time on the little ring. But you just need to make sure the gear combination you use suits your preferred cadence and the speed you're going. Being on the big or little ring does not make you go faster in itself - that's down to how much oooomph you put through the pedals. In general, try to ride with the chain on the middle six cogs on the back and whichever ring gives you the right cadence for your speed. Read the road ahead a bit; if there's uphill coming up then use a combination involving the little ring as you can then change down easier, if there's downhill coming up then the reverse. It's pretty straightforward stuff (although we all occasionally find ourselves in some completely inappropriate combination...)
Quite a few experienced riders have got used to pedalling at a relatively high cadence, so will spend proportionately more time in relatively low gears spinning the cranks, and hence more time on the little ring. But you just need to make sure the gear combination you use suits your preferred cadence and the speed you're going. Being on the big or little ring does not make you go faster in itself - that's down to how much oooomph you put through the pedals. In general, try to ride with the chain on the middle six cogs on the back and whichever ring gives you the right cadence for your speed. Read the road ahead a bit; if there's uphill coming up then use a combination involving the little ring as you can then change down easier, if there's downhill coming up then the reverse. It's pretty straightforward stuff (although we all occasionally find ourselves in some completely inappropriate combination...)
Well I guess I'll get used to it eventually, my Cadance was around 85 on way to college today but I felt too low and when I was pedaling around my legs where always bent slightly, I prefer them to be as streight as possible tbh as then I get more power out.
Also, the weather is awfull and its going to stay raining and cold for the whole month by looks of it, more like global cooling this
, think Overshoes and Leg warmers are something I should get now? Maybe even mud guaesa.
Also, the weather is awfull and its going to stay raining and cold for the whole month by looks of it, more like global cooling this
, think Overshoes and Leg warmers are something I should get now? Maybe even mud guaesa.Hey Willwillhub wrote:I went out on the new bike and flew on it, was doing 23+mph on one stretch and hitting 27 and not even pushing really hard and going into the wind I was doing 16-18+mph and this was not exatly just a super light breeze, maybe 10mph or higher so I'm kind of confused there, cadance meter seems to work, I seem to be jumping between 85-100RPM at the moment.
As your fitness increases and you get stronger with age I d seriously consider turning pro if you can attain 27mph on the flat on your own into wind and it felt you were not pushing hard. But seriously I wish I could do it but I guess turning back the clock is not an option. You're at the right age to start racing and see significant improvement, I did notice your time trial times and even though Im no expert they looked pretty good considering the bike you were on and your age etc. Give it 10 years if you keep it up you might be considering the Tour de France.
The new bike however should see you improve. I dread to think what you may do in future when you can afford a full on carbon fibre machine.
Anyway keep it up and happy riding.
Jon
Thanks, I dont think I'll ever do Tour de France wont ever be fit enough for thatJon G wrote:Hey Willwillhub wrote:I went out on the new bike and flew on it, was doing 23+mph on one stretch and hitting 27 and not even pushing really hard and going into the wind I was doing 16-18+mph and this was not exatly just a super light breeze, maybe 10mph or higher so I'm kind of confused there, cadance meter seems to work, I seem to be jumping between 85-100RPM at the moment.
As your fitness increases and you get stronger with age I d seriously consider turning pro if you can attain 27mph on the flat on your own into wind and it felt you were not pushing hard. But seriously I wish I could do it but I guess turning back the clock is not an option. You're at the right age to start racing and see significant improvement, I did notice your time trial times and even though Im no expert they looked pretty good considering the bike you were on and your age etc. Give it 10 years if you keep it up you might be considering the Tour de France.
The new bike however should see you improve. I dread to think what you may do in future when you can afford a full on carbon fibre machine.
Anyway keep it up and happy riding.
Jon
I cant do 27mph into wind, I did yesterday but only for litrally a short burst, up to 27mph for like 1 second and came back down, was more like 18mph but it was not super heavy, today I think its a headwind up to sherriff hutton so should see what I get then, gotta raise my seat abit more though.
I plan on my new bike to last me for years providing the frame does not fall apart and it does not get stolen or something.
Nah they did not, they said you wont need it we know the bike fits you basically. I came on the bike today to college and also had super heavy backpack on, much heavier than ever had it before and I got no back pain so its looking good!, but I will raise my seat more as I prefer my leg to be as streight as possible.Rob wrote:Sorry Will, did CH do you a free "bike fit" or not?willhub wrote: gotta raise my seat abit more though.
I think the combination of 
and 
would do it, Rob. Given that Andy got the stuff bought in, and they've promoted it as something extra they can offer, why OH why are the staff not using it? And, as Muzzy said, at the very least you get a print-out of your recommended bike setup dimensions which is a handy reminder in future. Plus you stand a fair chance of getting the saddle height somewhere near right on day one...
I'll have words... ...meanwhile Will if you're passing CH sometime I'd ask them to put you on the jig sometime as long as they're not charging for it.
and would do it, Rob. Given that Andy got the stuff bought in, and they've promoted it as something extra they can offer, why OH why are the staff not using it? And, as Muzzy said, at the very least you get a print-out of your recommended bike setup dimensions which is a handy reminder in future. Plus you stand a fair chance of getting the saddle height somewhere near right on day one...I'll have words... ...meanwhile Will if you're passing CH sometime I'd ask them to put you on the jig sometime as long as they're not charging for it.
